Croissant

Croissants

French Pastry Perfection

7000 Level

CroissantsCroissant making skills are the PhD of pastry.  They require attention, focus and time.  Success is worth the effort and often times, even half way there is okay, but it is worth the effort for fully right.

The way to make croissants is the same way to Carneige Hall: practice, practice, practice.  Croissant is absolutely worth learning.  I’ve linked some videos here which will show you what I am doing.

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My Training Ground

I learned the ins and outs of croissant in New Jersey where fresh yeast is plentiful and available.  In subsequent versions I tried instant yeast, calculating for the conversion, and found little success compared to fresh yeast.

I have noticed that OR sells wee packets of fresh yeast but it’s there.  I have never seen it in Florida stores, but of course, I didn’t check them all.

If you can find it, use fresh yeast.  I have not tried croissant with active dry yeast so I cannot advise you.

My fresh yeast dough had the expected puff from the yeast which previous doughs with instant did not.

Tools?  We don’t need no stinkin’ tools!

Yes.  Yes you do.

A mixer is a must.  Simply put, I cannot imagine having to mix the dough without one.  Kneeding is a Herculean feat.

A rolling pin is a must as well and not just any pin.  That puny pin from the grocery store or the discount store simply will not do perform as needed.  For croissant dough and Danish dough and puff pastry dough, a pin of some substance is necessary.  I’ve tried the classic French pin, which is basically a large dowel, and for pie dough it’s grand.  Not grand for the heavy work required for croissant.

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Croissant

Croissants are a skill worth seeking.  Practice and patience and skill are necessary for good croissants.  And they are absolutely worth the effort.

Course Breakfast
Cuisine French
Prep Time 3 hours
Cook Time 16 minutes
Total Time 3 hours 16 minutes
Author Dann Reid

Ingredients

  • 500 g Bread flour 250 g
  • 10 g salt 5 g
  • 25 g Fresh yeat 13 g
  • 250 g Water (in summer months, ice water) 125 g
  • 125 g Sugar 63 g
  • 20 g Dry Milk Powder 10 g
  • 25 g Butter 13 g

Butter for Roll-in

  • 323 g Superior European butter 162 g

Instructions

Mixing the dough

  1. Add the water to the mixing bowl. Scale each of the dry ingredients together, putting each of the small portions at 12, 3, 6, and 9 against the side of the bowl. Add the dry ingredients and butter to the mixer and turn it to low speed. Mix for 1 minute them turn to medium speed and mix for three minutes. After three minutes the dough should be very smooth and have an almost velvet feel. If that is not the case, mix for another minute.

  2. Remove the dough to a counter. Kneed the dough a couple of times to create a tight uniform ball of dough. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator overnight.

    Croissant dough ready to roll.
  3. While the dough is resting, prepare the butter. One stick of butter is 113 grams. Guess well and slice your stick into quarters the long way. Cut the balance of the butter in the same shape. Piece the slices together on waxed paper to form a rectangle. Place another piece of waxed paper on the butter. Using a rolling pin or a meat mallet, smooth side please, pound the butter carefully to be about ¼ of an inch thick BUT also as uniform a rectangle as is possible. I know, it ain’t easy. Place that butter in the cooler also for tomorrow.

Rolling day

  1. On rolling day, roll the dough into a rectangle about three times as wide as high. Brush away the excess flour, and place the prepared butter just off center on the dough leaving an edge at the top and bottom to seal in the butter. Fold the short end of the dough over the butter then the long end. It’s good if there is a bit of overlap, but at least make sure the edges touch so they can be pinched together. Press the edges together to seal in the butter.

  2. Croissant dough success depends on a series of rolling the dough, folding, turning the dough and rolling again, such is the case here. Roll the dough long in the direction of the seam. Work to make a rectangle of the approximate size as before. Since the dough is being worked, it will be more difficult to roll. Don’t press to hard or you risk breaking the seal of the butter. Once the dough is rolled, brush off the excess flour, fold the dough into thirds as you fold a letter. Brush flour off each layer of dough before you fold. At this point, place the dough on a sheetpan, cover with plastic and chill for at least 30 minutes.

  3. When the dough has rested and is cool again, repeat the rolling and folding and cooling process two more times. After the last fold, place the dough back in the cooler to rest and chill.

  4. Roll the cooled rested dough again, this time working to get the dough about 3/8 of an inch thick. Use flour to keep the dough from sticking both from the counter and from the pin. When the dough is rolled to the right thickness, brush away the excess flour. If the dough height is 8 inches or so, that is a good length for a croissant triangle.

  5. Using a pastry wheel or a long French knife, trim the long edges of the croissant dough. Then, cut the croissants into triangles. Make a half inch cut in the base of the triangle. That is the inside of the roll. Gently spread the base of the triangle and roll the croissant. Here is a video. He uses a sheeter. The take-away here is the cutting and rolling of each croissant.

    Croissant dough cut into triangles ready for rolling
  6. Proof the croissant. This is a matter of time and not heat. You need some heat, but if you can control your proofer, do not set the temperature above 90 degrees F. Too high, even 95, and the butter will melt out of the croissants and that is heartbreaking. Patience is the key here. The croissant can be frozen at this point. Place them on a lined sheetpan and when frozen solid, store them in a zip top bag. To bake, place the desired croissant on a baking sheet lined pan and allow to thaw in the refrigerator. In the morning, place them in the proofer.

    A well proofed croissant
  7. Bake them in a 425 degree oven for 12 -14 minutes. As soon as they are in the oven, reduce the temperature to 350 degrees and bake till nicely golden brown and delicious.

    Well baked croissant.

Recipe Notes

Butter for croissant is best when the butter content is 84%. The challenge is how to know. European style butters, in particular, Plugra or President, are higher fat than other butters which might only be 80%. That’s a small change but it makes a big difference. Higher fat content butter is more pliable and rolls into the dough with more ease than less fat butter. In addition to getting a high fat butter, ensuring that the dough and the butter are of the same texture is important. If the butter is too stiff, it will tear through the dough instead of being fully enclosed by the dough.

Rolling a laminated dough is not an easy task.  It requires a lot of persistence and pressure, hence the heavy pin, to push that dough thin enough.

 

Baking tools, sheet pans and toys.

White Pizza Topping

Yo!  Tony, gimme a slice o’ dat pie.

In truth, I did hear these kinds of exchanges between fellas in Brooklyn.  When in Carroll Gardens. . . .  In an attempt to illustrate the point, when  Smith W 9th Streets in Carroll Gardens, BrooklynBobby DeNiro’s character in “Goodfellas” is waving the Renne Russo character down the block to pick up some dresses and the camera pulls back to reveal the street signs of Smith and W 9th, well, that’s the other side of the block where I lived.  Carroll Gardens, capisci?

At the minimum white pizza ought to start, or at least include, ricotta cheese.  I’ve seen it be at its worst a poorly made cream sauce with parmesan cheese (not Italian) and too much garlic.  Ooof!

I really do love a great white pizza.  I have discovered more and more, outside of NYC, if I want that, I have to make it.  So, I did.

It’s all about the basics

This is the basic recipe I use.  It has the fabulous ability to adapt to whatever I add or subtract from it as long as ricotta is the base.  Do your best or worst, whichever is the one you like.  Post some pictures.

You can find my pizza dough recipe here.

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White Pizza

Not a tomato in sight (unless you want one) white pizza captures a different aspect of what pizza can be.  It can handle a few toppings but the jewel is the cheese mix.  That's the secret to make this pizza sing.

Course Main Course
Cuisine Italian
Prep Time 10 minutes
Cook Time 30 minutes
Cooling down 4 minutes
Total Time 40 minutes
Servings 6
Author Dann Reid

Ingredients

White Pizza Cheese mix

  • 8 oz Whole milk ricotta
  • 4 oz Shredded mozzarella
  • 2 oz Grated Pecorino Romano
  • 2 oz Grated Parmigiano Reggiano Sub Provolone is you wish
  • 2 oz Extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 T Fresh chopped oregano or marjoram Or both!
  • 4 oz Heavy cream
  • q.b.* Salt and pepper

Instructions

Mix the topping

  1. Mix all ingredients together with a wooden spoon or in a mixer on speed 1. Check the seasoning. Cheeses tend toward salty so you might not need salt.

  2. Using an offset spatula, carefully spread the cheese mixture on the rolled dough. The dough will be a bit soft and non-compliant. No worries. Spread the cheese by placing large mounds of the cheese at the center and the even numbers of a clock face. Push the cheese toward the other mounds. If there are a few spots where the cheese 

  3. Place your toppings on top. Bake on a stone and reduce the temperature to 375 degrees. Bake until the crust is done and the cheese turns golden brown and delicious.

Recipe Notes

*q.b. means quanto basta, or as needed.  The cheeses may tend toward salty, so taste the mix before adding additional salt.  Pepper you will almost certainly want. 

These weights are a guide. That means I don’t measure the cheeses for this all that well. I am a stickler for measuring when measuring matters. In the case of this topping, it just does not matter. If you prefer more or less of this or that, make the topping as you wish. You are eating it, not me.

I find it of importance to make sure that some ingredients do not go on pizza raw. Raw peppers or mushrooms contain a lot of moisture and will ruin a pizza by all that water running out onto your pie. Cook them first. Then place the cooked peppers, mushroom, bacon or sausage on the pie. Onions are fine cut thin. I like broccoli on pizza, but I cut mine small so they get well caramelized. Cauliflower too. I avoid sliced tomatoes but do use halved grape tomatoes. Both have an incredible amount of water, but the grape tomatoes, place cut side up, allow the skin to retain the majority of that extra water and it doesn’t ruin the pizza.

A moment of cooking philosophy: Details matter when they are important. Recipes matter for the details. But, sometimes, when they don’t matter and you can make a dinner better as you see it by making it to your tastes, then that is absolutely what you should do. If you prefer pesto and not oregano, use it. If you hate provolone but love gruyere, use it.

white pizza with Zucchini
Pizza can be many shapes and topped with many things. The only real rule is it must taste good.