What 4 food additives are states banning and why is that probably a good thing? Ep 278

The FDA hates you.

That’s harsh. How else are we to take the knowledge that much of the world bans cancer causing food additives that the FDA says are safe?

Several states are starting to do something about it. People can, too, but it is much more difficult. Find out what 4 chemicals are being banned and why.

Listen to the show

Apple Podcast formerly iTunes logo podcatcher

Dann’s cookbook on Amz

Cooking For Comfort

Music

Banner for Matt Bankert musician's website mattbankert.com

Return to podcasts page

Drop me a note:podcast@culinarylibertarian.com

Did you like this episode? Please support the show with a contribution below.


$5.00
]
$10.00

Return to podcasts page

Text from the show, links included

Critics of capitalism often cite profits over people as one of the main complaints.

This isn’t an economics episode, exactly, nor is it a bash on preferences and substitutes. Perhaps it is also a show about unintended consequences.

It is a show about how states can, and are in at least one certain example, ignoring FDA guidelines, perhaps, I’m not certain of the exact word here, and creating laws that ban otherwise approved food additive ingredients.

In a February 1, 2024 blog post on the Environmental Defense Fund website, the post opens with this question. Why are four notorious carcinogens approved by the FDA for food?

Good question.

The four chemicals the post mentions are benzene, trichloroethylene, methylene chloride, and ethylene dichloride.

In the section of the blog post with a blurb about each chemical, all either are known to cause cancer in humans or are carcinogenic. Scanning the page for some highlights we find that benzene “is allowed in hops extracts (used in beer production and supplements)”. Trichloroethylene “is allowed in decaffeinated coffee, certain extracts of spices used as food and/or color additives, and hops extracts” methylene chloride “is allowed in decaffeinated coffee, certain extracts of spices used as food and/or color additives and hops extracts” and ethylene dichloride is “allowed in certain extracts of spices used as food and/or color additives, hops extracts, in water used to wash sugar beets, and to dilute pesticides.”

Yummy.

Those chemicals have other uses than just decaffeinating coffee. Methylene chloride is in paint thinner. Trichloroethylene is too and is also a solvent for degreasing metal parts. Ethylene dichloride is used to remove lead from gasoline and in the production of PVC pipes. Benzene is a solvent for pharmaceutical companies and is used in the production of gasoline.

The economics part of the show is to wonder if the end result of these chemicals in foods can be achieved in any other way that doesn’t use toxic chemistry. That is the substitute. Or, maybe the chemicals are the substitute for another way. Are these chemicals cheaper than other ways? Probably. It is at least a good guess. If you are a consumer of almost anything at all, you’ll notice that the quality of almost every damned thing is not what it once was.

Making crappy products because you can versus making crappy products to stay competitive is another show. Poisoning your customers because it’s cheaper should be an easy decision so don’t do that. Since we don’t favor overlords overlording, hoping company A takes the high road and makes a non-toxic product at a price point over all the competitors is a pretty certain way to go out of business.

Speaking of those overlords. The FDA, the Food and Drug Administration, allows those chemicals for the uses cited in the EDF post.

The list of chemicals allowed by the FDA is impressively long. That is a long list of chemicals that ought not alarm you exactly. Water is a chemical. Table salt is a chemical. Not every chemical is harmful. Some are, though, and maybe some of them ought not be in food.

California, for all the problems that state seems to generate for itself, is way ahead of the curve on banning toxic stuff. They have the strictest rules on forever chemicals, a topic covered on this show only a few episodes ago. They also have strict rules about food additives. And other states are starting to ban some food additives from their grocery store shelves.

Illinois is also banning the same 4 food additives that the California Food Safety Act bans: Illinois Senate Bill 2637, aims to ban brominated vegetable oil, potassium bromate, propylparaben, and red dye 3 from foods sold in stores.

Now, first, a conflict. I don’t favor the state mandating and banning things. CA and IL doing so is meddling in consumer choice. However, it seems pretty plain that nearly all mega-food corporations will not make the changes for consumer wellness without some top-down pressure. Those additives are in too many things for consumers to refuse to purchase which makes grassroots-level economic pressure nearly impossible.

I like that those additives are being removed. That the FDA allows them when virtually the rest of the world has realized the harms exceed the benefits seems to say something significant about the interests of the FDA.

I like the outcome even if I bristle with the application. I’m not unaware of the conflict. The added possible advantage is when more states ban these additives, the costs of manufacturing two sets of products may compel companies to make the one that complies.

Brominated vegetable oil, also abbreviated as BVO, is used in citrus-flavored sodas, citrus-flavored energy drinks, and some baked goods. The chief issue is the bromine. Foodnetwork.com has a post with this passage about bromine, “’Bromine can irritate the skin, nose, mouth and stomach,’ says Katherine Zeratsky, RD, LD, registered dietitian at the Mayo Clinic. ‘It’s also been linked to neurologic symptoms in people who drink large quantities of citrus soda — more than 2 liters a day.’”

The watchdog group Environmental Working Group has a page about potassium bromate. They identify more than 130 baked goods with potassium bromate. They also write, “In lab tests, animals exposed to it had increased incidences of both benign and malignant tumors in the thyroid and peritoneum, the membrane that lines the abdominal cavity. Later researchfound that ingesting potassium bromate resulted in significant increases in cancer of the animals’ thyroid, kidneys and other organs.”

Propylparaben are food preservatives used in baked goods to extend shelf life and delay the growth of food spoilage microorganisms as paraphrased from an interview with doctors Carl Winter and Sean O’Keefe on the bestfoodfacts.org website.

The last additive is the infamous red dye #3. Red dye #3 is a synthetic dye and is a petroleum derivative. Red dye # 3 was banned in cosmetics by the FDA in 1990 but has allowed it to be in food. The FDA responded to studies that linked red dye #3 in cosmetics to thyroid cancer in animals. One might wonder why would they keep such an additive in food and remove it from cosmetics. If you find that answer, let me know. The website Prevention has a page about red dye #3 and includes this passage from Daniel Ganjian MD, “‘If children ingest this dye, adverse effects may include hyperactivity, allergic reactions, and behavioral issues.’” Candy is the most common food source for red dye #3. Candy might be the most famous with Skittles being called out, but cookies and and ice creams and baking decorations, gummy animals, baby foods, and more.

When I worked at the Governors’ Club in Tallahassee, we bought bread from a commercial bakery in Thomasville GA. Over one Christmas break, I took home a loaf of sourdough sandwich bread. It was still in the bag and not out of date. Somehow I didn’t manage to eat so much as one sandwich over break and the bread remained in the bag. A few weeks later it’s still there and no mold. I thought that was odd. I left the bread in the bag until the following Christmas and no mold. I don’t know what was in there to make mold not grow in a year.

That bread story is anecdotal. I have no idea why the bread didn’t mold. I will tell you I didn’t eat commercial bread for a long time and now, rarely eat bread I don’t bake.

To follow up a bit on the overlords banning things that are bad for us. That’s the end of the line, it seems. What circumstances created the need or want to use those additives in the first place? That seems a good place to start. I have no answer, yet. Should the citizens demand those mega food companies start making better foods or maybe Americans should pick better groceries?

That’s a tough thing when people should be left to their own decisions that don’t harm others. It already fails when the choices given to shoppers are all harmful to one degree or another.

You might think that’s pretty dire. You might think there’s no hope and everything in a box called food is poison. I might joke that that’s so, but I don’t think so. I also think there are choices. Not always. A pop tart by any other name is probably equally terrible.

I had to look up what those additives are. Every one of them was a potential rabbit hole of information. You are not going to like to hear this. You will not want to do this. You might think it’s someone else’s responsibility. To avoid the crap it seems you have to read the labels. What are those things you can’t pronounce? Should you eat it and is there an alternative that doesn’t have it?

I made beef jerky for my daughter last week. We tested a recipe she thought was interesting. We made it because the stuff in the store is expensive. I bought a pound of beef for the same price as two bags of jerky I approve of.

As I was checking it, I laughed to myself that one day she’ll be with friends eating something and she’ll just shake her head in disappointment and say her dad could make it better.

I didn’t intend for this to be a make-your-own food show. It seems a lot of them come down to that. So, I guess this is a make-your-own food show. I make my own mayo and peanut butter. I’ve made my own cheese crackers. It’s very easy. And I get off the mega food company drug, so to speak. Small steps are how I started. You can too.

The Escoffier Series, Chapter 11 Cold Preparations, conclusion Episode 277

The Escoffier Series, Chapter 11, Cold Preparations concludes

Salads and salad dressings are the topics today.

Of course salads can be almost anything. Escoffier has some ideas about what to do with some ingredients, so we cover that. Dressings are a bit more restrained. Lots of variety but only a few main, base sources. Of course, the vinaigrette is discussed.

Listen to the show

Apple Podcast formerly iTunes logo podcatcher

Escoffier’s book on Amz

La Guide Culinaire

Dann’s cookbook on Amz

Cooking For Comfort: One Pot Meals You Can Make

Music

Banner for Matt Bankert musician's website mattbankert.com

Return to podcasts page

Drop me a note:podcast@culinarylibertarian.com

Did you like this episode? Please support the show with a contribution below.


$5.00
]
$10.00

Return to podcasts page

Test from the show

I’ve mentioned on some previous Escoffier series episodes that Classical French cooking is thought of as almost unapproachable. Cooking for the elite by the elite, so to speak. In a way who does the cooking is not wrong. How it is right is the skill and attention to craft necessary to do a job well. If you played basketball in high school, it is rare indeed that you’ll pick up with the pros and be equal. RIP Kobe.

Classical French cooking is part of a culture not much longer around, but people who enjoy a thing done well and can pay for it are as many as those who can and want to do that thing well.

The last point I want to make before we get into salads and dressings is from Escoffier’s forward to the first edition. He writes, “I have no pretentions that this guide is exhaustive; even if it were today, it would no longer be so tomorrow, because progress marches on and each day brings forth new recipes and new methods.” Indeed.

In 122 years the amount of new foods to cook and eat is staggering. The dressings he mentions can be altered, and he would probably be the first to encourage that and approve.

There are two main types of salad: simple salads and composed salads. Simple salads include the mixed greens salads you get when you dine out. They include more and I’ll get to that.

Composed salads are what the name suggests. Items are placed in a fashion on the plate, dressed, and garnished.

In some cases, a leaf lettuce salad is a composed salad. The infamous Chef’s Salad, the Cobb Salad, and the Nicoise Salad are three.

Already we have forks in the road. Simple salads and composed. In the composed category, Escoffier adds Mayonnaise salads. Macaroni salad and pasta salad and egg salad and tuna salad all are composed, even if they aren’t pretty, and suitable for dinner or at least a substantial portion with the main course. We might be able to sneak cole slaw into the composed salad category.

In both cases, simple and composed, the dressings can serve either one. There aren’t dressings only for composed salads.

Perhaps the most famous dressing ever, and probably perfected by the French is the vinaigrette. It has only 4 ingredients, is never emulsified, and is wonderful. Vinegar, oil, salt, pepper.

Variety comes to that dressing by the choice of vinegar and oil and, in some small effect, the salt and pepper. The traditional ratio of a vinaigrette is 3:1, three parts oil to one part vinegar. A lot of vinegars these days are very harsh. Too harsh, too acidic. I’ve found many times, 4:1 is necessary to tame the acid enough to enjoy eating the salad. Salt change mostly is in smoked or not smoked. Various small-batch salts have distinct flavors. I have not tasted enough to know if the small amount used will give a nice sea aroma to the dressing. Pepper is chiefly black or white. Aside from preferring the aesthetic of white pepper in a white salad, say Hearts of Palm, the flavor is different between them.

Cream dressing is interesting and I’ve never made it. I’ll fix that. Cream dressing is made with cream. Three parts heavy cream to one part vinegar, or better yet, lemon juice. Acid is well known to curdle milk when it reaches about 180 degrees. No worries when it’s kept cold. Escoffier mentions this is a good dressing for cabbage or young lettuces.

There are two more I’ll mention of the 6 he lists. The first is mustard and cream dressing. He lists to make the cream dressing with mustard. We can easily use already-made cream dressing and add whole-grain mustard. Of course, you can use Dijon or any mustard you prefer. I like the flavor and appearance of coarse-grain mustard. Escoffier identifies beetroot or celeriac, also called celery root, are two good vegetables for this dressing.

The other is mayonnaise. Classic mayonnaise is made with egg yolks, oil, a bit of vinegar or lemon juice, and salt. I’ve found mustard is a useful additional ingredient to help the emulsification and add flavor. This kind of mayonnaise is made in a mixer and the oil is drizzled in very slowly. You can find YouTube videos about this. What is also possible is a whole egg mayonnaise made with an immersion blender and those are quick and yummy.

A few points about simple salads. Less dressing is generally better than more, regardless of the type. Most vegetables make excellent additions to simple salads, or by themselves as simple salads. Beets are better baked than boiled then, when cool enough to hold, peeled and cut into julienne. While the beet is still warm add to it a dressing so as the beet cools, it draws in the flavor of the dressing. Cauliflower and pearl onions and celery hearts and potatoes and sliced carrots and mushrooms on and on. Vegetables cooked to slightly underdone, don’t shock in cold water, and added to the dressing make an amazing salad or component to a salad.

Some vegetables can be marinated in dressing for a few hours. Cole Slaw is maybe the most well-known. I’m a big fan of Cole Slaw with homemade dressing. The store stuff, in nearly every case, has far more sugar than I want.

One salad I want to mention particularly is a celeriac salad. Thin slices of celeriac marinated in the mustard cream dressing is simply amazing. Celeriac is in most produce sections. It is also pretty difficult to cut, so care must be taken to cut it and not you.

One last quick procedure. If you grow your cukes in the summer, leave the skin on, if you want, slice them thin, and salt them to draw some water out. Drain the water and add a vinaigrette with a bit of chervil or tarragon. I’ve also made this with a bit of sour cream and chives. Serve very cold.

Composed salads have nearly as many possibilities as simple salads. One addition Escoffier mentions is the use of cold rice bound with vinaigrette, pressed into a mold, and tipped out onto a platter. Arrange around that the various marinated vegetables.

A composed salad doesn’t need to be complicated or ornate. A platter of perfectly ripe tomatoes dressed with a light vinaigrette is a composed salad.

I want to discuss vinegar for a moment. I mentioned that most of them are harsh. Rice wine vinegar is less harsh. It’s a very good choice of acid since it has little of its own flavor which means it won’t mask what’s added to it. The smallest and most reasonable amount of vinaigrette to make is a quarter of a cup. 1 Tablespoon vinegar to 3 tablespoons of oil. If the vinegar is too harsh, add a dribble of water. It is water in essence and will help cut that acid.

A note about oils. Making a vinaigrette without the popular seed, or so-called vegetable oils, seems pretty challenging. Some seed oils are worse than others. Nut oils are good for flavor. They also go rancid quickly and are spendy. Avocado oil isn’t terrible. Canola oil is terrible. If you can eat it, peanut oil is a good oil for dressings.

Flavor contrast and compatibility come into play in salads. Potatoes make great salads. They are a pretty good canvas for flavors and potato salads can vary widely. They also tend to support mustards and high acid vinegars and tender herbs, which seems ironic. Beets, too, can take bold flavors and delicate herbs like chervil or tarragon.

There is also a technique we used to do at the Governors’ Club. Blanch the vegetables, we did both cauliflower and pearl onions, and add the just nearly done vegetable to pickle juice. As it cools, the vegetable absorbs the pickle juice and the flavor permeates every bite. Saffron or turmeric, a similar color with very different flavors, adds a very nice visual element to cauliflower.

This is just the beginning of what’s possible with dressings and salads. With planting season coming, maybe plan your garden around the kinds of salads you want to make. If you make pickled cauliflower or pearl onions, or the Mid Atlantic classic Chow-Chow, you can do that for year-round use.