The Best Sandwich You May Not Know

Half a Muff isn’t what you think

New Orleans is swimming in culture.  From Faulkner and Anne Rice to the darker side of voo-doo and occult, history and lore is everywhere.

Food is well included in the lore and mythology of the city.

Central Grocery 1906
Central Grocery 1906

The Muffuletta sandwich has a rich history.  Where it was invented, Central Grocery, is mostly accepted.  Who makes the best, well, that’s met with passion.  As it should be. Passion about food is a good thing.

Central Grocery
Central Grocery now

The hows and whys are also discussed.  The version I like-which may benefit from over 100 years of elaboration-is a wire worker, coming in to Central Grocery for lunch, put the antipasta plate inside a piece of bread so he could use at least one hand on the job.

Is it true?  I have no idea, but I like the functionality of the idea.  Necessity is the mother of invention, so they say.

That bread, though

The loaf of bread was baked by Leidenheimer.  As far as I can determine, they still bake bread, and specifically, that round loaf of the Muff fame.

It’s the olives

As passions go, they are fiercely loyal. Fans of the olive salad on the sandwich are determined that that is the single reason the sandwich is so good.

I admit, it is a feature, and the salad is worth eating all alone.

The meats make it

Find two people and ask a sandwich question and you’ll get three answers.  The meats and cheeses matter, of course. Today, however, not all the ingredients one would find in a good Italian salumeria are available. What is a person to do?  Make due with what you have.  Using what you have is, in my view, the most Italian thing to do.

Put it all together

I prefer salami, ham, mortadella with Swiss and Provolone.

However, it’s your sandwich so add what you want.

The olive salad can be chunky or a bit more of a paste.  I prefer more paste than chunks, myself, but see above.

One tip which really does make a difference is this: make the sandwich the night before.  Get it assembled and extra olive salad juice on the bread. Wrap it in plastic wrap then in the cooler.  Place a plate on top of the sandwich and a small can of something, evaporated milk.  Something to press it just a bit.  Press, not squish.

The flavor development is worth it.  You can eat it cold or place it in a 300° F oven for 10 minutes or so to get the meat warm and the cheese melty.  So good.

Olive Salad for Muffuletta

I love this olive mix.  It is very accommodating so add or subtract as you wish.  The flavor will improve after it sits a day and is great just as a dip with crackers or bread or, well, right from the jar.

Course Condiment
Cuisine Italian
Keyword Muffuletta, Olive salad, Olives, Tapenade
Prep Time 15 minutes
Author Dann Reid

Ingredients

The ingredients

  • 1 C Picholine olives
  • 1 C Kalamata olives
  • 1/2 C Extra Virgin Olive Oil
  • 3 T Balsamic Vinegar
  • 1/3 C Fresh chopped Italian parsley
  • 2 t Fresh chopped oregano or marjoram
  • 2 cloves Chopped garlic
  • 1 each Roasted, peeled red bell pepper
  • 2 T Chopped capers rinsed
  • as needed Salt and pepper

Instructions

  1. Chop the olives-watch for pits.

    Dice the red bell pepper into small pieces.

  2. Mix all the ingredients together in a bowl.  Taste and adjust seasoning.

    Store in resealable glass jar in the cooler.

Recipe Notes

The important part for the olive salad is color and flavor.  If you can't get or don't like these specific olives, that's okay.  Use what you do like.  You don't even have to use both colors. 

If you prefer a zippy salad, add some red pepper flakes or other heat.  Add small diced red onions or rosemary.  Make it so you love it.

If you can find salt packed capers, get them. Here's a link. I say there is not comparison and they are so worth it.

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Muffuletta bread

This is similar to the famous bread from Leidenheimer bakery in NOLA.  They make theirs pretty squat, maybe 2 inches flat.  Since it will be sliced and filled and pressed, that makes such things easier.

Course Bread
Cuisine New Orleans
Keyword Muffuletta
Prep Time 4 hours
Cook Time 25 minutes
Resting time 1 hour
Total Time 4 hours 25 minutes
Author Dann Reid

Ingredients

The ingredients

  • 227 g Room temperature water
  • 3 C Bread flour
  • 5 g Instant yeast
  • 1 T Sugar
  • 7 g Salt
  • 28 g Unsalted butter, diced
  • As needed Sesame seeds for garnish

Instructions

Mix and bake the bread

  1. Place all the dry ingredients and butter into the mixing bowl of a stand mixer.

    Start the machine on low speed, using the dough hook, and add the water to the bowl’s contents.

    Mix on low speed for 4 minutes.

  2. Mix on medium for an additional 4 minutes.

  3. Remove the dough from the mixing bowl. Roll the dough on the counter to shape into a round, place in a buttered glass or metal bowl. Place the dough seem side up. Move the dough ball to coat with butter and turn the bough over, placing seam side down, and cover with plastic wrap. Allow to rest 30 minutes.

  4. Lift dough from the bowl and gently pull the dough apart a few inches, bring the ends together. Turn the dough 45 degrees and repeat the pull and return process again. Repeat the turn and pull and return 2 more times, stretching and returning a total of 4 times. Shape the dough into a round and replace into the buttered bowl for an additional 30 minutes.

  5. Gently turn the dough out onto a lightly floured counter. Shape the dough into a round, place on a prepared sheet pan (parchment paper or silicone baking sheet lined) and brush the loaf with milk then sprinkle with sesame seeds.

  6. Allow the dough to stand 10 minutes to allow the milk to evaporate then lay plastic wrap on top until the loaf has doubled in size.

  7. Place in the oven, reduce the temperature to 375° F and bake 25 minutes or until the loaf is baked.

    Allow to cool completely before slicing.

Have you ever been to N’Awlins and had a Muffuletta?  Have you made one?  What did you like best about it or do you think you’ll like best?
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Best Ever Sandwich Bread

Holler, It’s Challah!

All Hail the Earl of Sandwich

Ever since that fateful poker game we’ve loved the Earl of Sandwich for his inspiration and invention.

Okay, the story might not be true, but a great sandwich can come from inspiration and invention.

The best sandwiches have the best bread.  So many choices, but my kids love this Challah.  I must say it is quite fine for a griddled cheese with extra stuff-ham and turkey and tomatoes and red onions and mustard just to start.

However you make your sandwiches-or French Toast-do make this bread.  It is very easy and is so worth it.  And, as it is for sandwiches, no need to braid it.  Not that there’s anything wrong with a good braided loaf of bread.

Not all pans are equal

I admit I have a bias against glass baking vessels.

I hate them.

Maybe I’m doing something wrong, but everything sticks and the bread or rolls or pie is ruined.  Argh!  So much effort for trash.

So, metal is my go to.  With the recent broo-ha-ha over Teflon and non-stick coatings in general, I avoid those and go for heavy gauge bread pans.

Challah

This bread is very easy to make and shape since, in this case, we are not braiding it.  Just shape as for a regular sandwich loaf, proof in the pan until just to the top and bake.  And, the whole house will smell grand for hours.

Course Bread
Cuisine American, French
Keyword Challah, Homemade bread, Sandwich bread
Prep Time 15 minutes
Cook Time 35 minutes
Cooling time 1 hour
Total Time 50 minutes
Author Dann Reid

Ingredients

Challah ingredients

  • 313 g Bread flour 11 oz
  • 71 g Cold unsalted butter 2.5 oz
  • 40 g Sugar
  • 6 g Salt
  • 7 g Instant yeast
  • 1 each Egg
  • 141 g Water 5 oz

Instructions

Mix the dough

  1. Scale the flour, yeast, salt, butter and sugar into the bowl of a stand mixer.

  2. Mix the egg and water to combine.  Add to the dry ingredients and mix on low speed for 4 minutes.

  3. After 4 minutes on low are finished, mix on medium for 4 additional minutes.

  4. When the dough is done, remove and shape into a round, pinching the bottom together with the palm of your hand.

  5. Place the finished dough, seam side down, in a buttered bowl.  Cover and allow to ferment 30 minutes.

    Challah just in the bowl
  6. After 30 minutes has passed, turn the dough over and pull the edges of the dough to the center, working around the edge about a dozen times.

    Turn the dough back onto the seam.  Cover the bowl and ferment an additional 30 minutes.

  7. At the end of the 30 minutes, remove the dough to a floured work surface and shape for a sandwich loaf.

    A loaf of Challah just placed in the proofer
  8. Place the shaped dough into a buttered metal bread pan and proof until the dough is at least double in height.

  9. Bake at 350°F for 35 minutes or until it is determined to be done, either with the thump test or a thermometer which reads 180°F.

    Challah cooling

Recipe Notes

Challah is an enriched dough which means it has egg and/or butter added to it.  Enriched breads can be trickier than regular breads for determining doneness, which is the reason for a thermometer.  Better to be sure than not, for once the dough has cooled, it cannot be baked more.

The two periods of 30 minute fermenting should be followed.  Allowing the dough to ferment too long reduces the final height of the loaf.  Better to let all the yeast energy prove the dough in the pan so you get a higher loaf.

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Yes, baby, butter

I am a fan of butter in baking.  Oils with polyunsaturated fatty acids-PUFA- are increasingly being shown to cause harm to the human body and I don’t use them.  A growing body of research exists supporting the idea that they are not worth eating.  I’ve a podcast episode about just that thing.

Prove it

Fermenting is one thing. Proofing another. Doughs like a warm, humid place to get comfy so the yeast can do its job.  At home, this is the best solution.  I use it often.

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Not just yet

Baking happens out of the oven too.  That cool down process is critical for all the parts to go back to normal.  But, the smell of fresh bread is intoxicating.  If you must-I must I must-eat a slice just out of the oven, then loads of butter please.

 

Click here to see the recipe file