A Peacekeeper By Another Name: Po’ Boy

Please give a sandwich to a poor boy

The Po’ Boy is likely the most famous sandwich from N’Orleans.

But it isn’t the best.  See the Muffuletta for that.

The story of origins

There are some legends about how the Po’ Boy came to be.  Given the colorful past of the city, each seems to have credibility.  I enjoy hearing the tale more than getting the truth.

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One version

Madame Begue was famous for her French Market breakfasts. She would split a French loaf-a baguette-lengthwise, butter both sides and fill it with meat or seafood.  She sold these sandwiches in her food stall in the market.

Local men, looking for work, would stop at and ask her, plead really, “Please give a sandwich to a po’ boy.”

Another version

Bennie and Clovis Martin offered their sandwich-also in the French Market-to any one of 10,000 public service union members on strike in protest to the change from buses to streetcars.

Two more

This goes on an enymological journey into the phrase pour boirre, which was a corruption of pourboire, a tip or a gratuity.  A tip for good service to keep the staff happy relates to the last version.

The other name given to the sandwich was “Peacekeeper”. Husbands who, for whatever reason were on the outs with the wife, would bring home a Peacekeeper to appease the put-out wife.

Make the sandwich already

Po’ boys are classically fried oysters or shrimp.  Chicken nuggets work as well as maybe-Gasp!-fried tofu. The real key is the star of the show is fried.

A note about frying oysters.  A) they spit in the fryer.  2) I like a simple flour/cornmeal crust, seasoned of course, and that’s it.  No batters or 3-step breading processes here.

Drop the oysters in the breading, roll them about a bit and they’re good to fry.

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Po' Boy Sandwich

The Po' Boy is a great lunch or party sandwich.  You can prep the veggies the day before if it is a party or just make one for yourself.  Call in sick even.

Course Lunch
Cuisine New Orleans
Keyword Po' Boy, Sandwich, Traditional New Orleans food
Prep Time 1 hour
Cook Time 10 minutes
Total Time 1 hour 10 minutes
Author Dann Reid

Ingredients

The Ingredients for the sandwich

  • French bread
  • Tomatoes
  • Mayonnaise
  • Ketchup
  • Creole or whole grain mustard
  • Shredded lettuce
  • Thin sweet or red onion slices
  • Dill pickle slices
  • Salt and pepper

Breading for oysters

  • 1 Can Select raw oysters
  • 1 C Flour
  • 1/2 C Medium coarse corn meal
  • Salt and pepper or Danny's Seasoning Salt

Breading for shrimp or chicken

  • Shrimp, peeled and tails off
  • 1" cubes of chicken breast (fat free thighs work)
  • Buttermilk
  • 1 C Fine bread crumbs
  • Salt and pepper

Instructions

The fixin's first

  1. Prepare all the garnish ingredients ahead.  Slice the tomatoes and onions, I like the onions almost so thin you can read through them. Iceburg is fine but use Romaine if you wish.

Prepare the oysters

  1. Turn the fryer to 350° F

  2. Place the flour, cornmeal and seasoning salt in a bowl and mix to combine.

  3. Place a few oysters at a time into the mixture.  Lift the flour mixture and sprinkle it over the tops of the oysters to fully coat them.  Turn them over to make sure all the parts of the oyster are coated with the mixture.

  4. Carefully place the oysters in the fryer.  Have your bowl lined with paper towels and seasoning salt ready.  Oysters do not need to fry too long.

  5. Take the oysters out, tip into lined bowl, season and go make a sandwich.

Bread and fry the chicken or shrimp

  1. Place the shrimp or chicken in the seasoned buttermilk.  For ease of eating I remove the shell and tail.

  2. Life the meat from the buttermilk, and using the edge of the bowl, let the excess fall back inside the bowl.

  3. Place the shrimp or chicken into the seasoned mixture, a few at a time, and coat well.  Remove to a screen rack over a sheet pan to catch crumbs.

  4. Allow the breaded meat to rest 5 minutes then fry to golden brown.  Turn the food into a paper towel lined bowl and season.

  5. Make your sandwich.

Assemble the sandwich

  1. Slice, butter and toast the bread in a 450° oven.  Just nicely golden brown will do.

  2. I prefer mayonnaise on both sides as an extra moisture barrier.  Add your preferred garnishes with the star in the middle.  Fold it together and eat.

Recipe Notes

Danny's seasoning salt is my answer to Lawry's.  Mostly exactly the same, but I took out the sugar.  It is very easy to make, a good project for young fingers seeking something to do in the kitchen.

The simple origins of the sandwich mean, to me, simple but excellent meat or fish and bread.  The rest can be as you prefer.  For the reasons of provenance, I do not use Remoulade Sauce, but that's not a reason you can't.

Which is your favorite Po’ Boy, chicken or shrimp or oyster?

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The Best Sandwich You May Not Know

Half a Muff isn’t what you think

New Orleans is swimming in culture.  From Faulkner and Anne Rice to the darker side of voo-doo and occult, history and lore is everywhere.

Food is well included in the lore and mythology of the city.

Central Grocery 1906
Central Grocery 1906

The Muffuletta sandwich has a rich history.  Where it was invented, Central Grocery, is mostly accepted.  Who makes the best, well, that’s met with passion.  As it should be. Passion about food is a good thing.

Central Grocery
Central Grocery now

The hows and whys are also discussed.  The version I like-which may benefit from over 100 years of elaboration-is a wire worker, coming in to Central Grocery for lunch, put the antipasta plate inside a piece of bread so he could use at least one hand on the job.

Is it true?  I have no idea, but I like the functionality of the idea.  Necessity is the mother of invention, so they say.

That bread, though

The loaf of bread was baked by Leidenheimer.  As far as I can determine, they still bake bread, and specifically, that round loaf of the Muff fame.

It’s the olives

As passions go, they are fiercely loyal. Fans of the olive salad on the sandwich are determined that that is the single reason the sandwich is so good.

I admit, it is a feature, and the salad is worth eating all alone.

The meats make it

Find two people and ask a sandwich question and you’ll get three answers.  The meats and cheeses matter, of course. Today, however, not all the ingredients one would find in a good Italian salumeria are available. What is a person to do?  Make due with what you have.  Using what you have is, in my view, the most Italian thing to do.

Put it all together

I prefer salami, ham, mortadella with Swiss and Provolone.

However, it’s your sandwich so add what you want.

The olive salad can be chunky or a bit more of a paste.  I prefer more paste than chunks, myself, but see above.

One tip which really does make a difference is this: make the sandwich the night before.  Get it assembled and extra olive salad juice on the bread. Wrap it in plastic wrap then in the cooler.  Place a plate on top of the sandwich and a small can of something, evaporated milk.  Something to press it just a bit.  Press, not squish.

The flavor development is worth it.  You can eat it cold or place it in a 300° F oven for 10 minutes or so to get the meat warm and the cheese melty.  So good.

Olive Salad for Muffuletta

I love this olive mix.  It is very accommodating so add or subtract as you wish.  The flavor will improve after it sits a day and is great just as a dip with crackers or bread or, well, right from the jar.

Course Condiment
Cuisine Italian
Keyword Muffuletta, Olive salad, Olives, Tapenade
Prep Time 15 minutes
Author Dann Reid

Ingredients

The ingredients

  • 1 C Picholine olives
  • 1 C Kalamata olives
  • 1/2 C Extra Virgin Olive Oil
  • 3 T Balsamic Vinegar
  • 1/3 C Fresh chopped Italian parsley
  • 2 t Fresh chopped oregano or marjoram
  • 2 cloves Chopped garlic
  • 1 each Roasted, peeled red bell pepper
  • 2 T Chopped capers rinsed
  • as needed Salt and pepper

Instructions

  1. Chop the olives-watch for pits.

    Dice the red bell pepper into small pieces.

  2. Mix all the ingredients together in a bowl.  Taste and adjust seasoning.

    Store in resealable glass jar in the cooler.

Recipe Notes

The important part for the olive salad is color and flavor.  If you can't get or don't like these specific olives, that's okay.  Use what you do like.  You don't even have to use both colors. 

If you prefer a zippy salad, add some red pepper flakes or other heat.  Add small diced red onions or rosemary.  Make it so you love it.

If you can find salt packed capers, get them. Here's a link. I say there is not comparison and they are so worth it.

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Muffuletta bread

This is similar to the famous bread from Leidenheimer bakery in NOLA.  They make theirs pretty squat, maybe 2 inches flat.  Since it will be sliced and filled and pressed, that makes such things easier.

Course Bread
Cuisine New Orleans
Keyword Muffuletta
Prep Time 4 hours
Cook Time 25 minutes
Resting time 1 hour
Total Time 4 hours 25 minutes
Author Dann Reid

Ingredients

The ingredients

  • 227 g Room temperature water
  • 3 C Bread flour
  • 5 g Instant yeast
  • 1 T Sugar
  • 7 g Salt
  • 28 g Unsalted butter, diced
  • As needed Sesame seeds for garnish

Instructions

Mix and bake the bread

  1. Place all the dry ingredients and butter into the mixing bowl of a stand mixer.

    Start the machine on low speed, using the dough hook, and add the water to the bowl’s contents.

    Mix on low speed for 4 minutes.

  2. Mix on medium for an additional 4 minutes.

  3. Remove the dough from the mixing bowl. Roll the dough on the counter to shape into a round, place in a buttered glass or metal bowl. Place the dough seem side up. Move the dough ball to coat with butter and turn the bough over, placing seam side down, and cover with plastic wrap. Allow to rest 30 minutes.

  4. Lift dough from the bowl and gently pull the dough apart a few inches, bring the ends together. Turn the dough 45 degrees and repeat the pull and return process again. Repeat the turn and pull and return 2 more times, stretching and returning a total of 4 times. Shape the dough into a round and replace into the buttered bowl for an additional 30 minutes.

  5. Gently turn the dough out onto a lightly floured counter. Shape the dough into a round, place on a prepared sheet pan (parchment paper or silicone baking sheet lined) and brush the loaf with milk then sprinkle with sesame seeds.

  6. Allow the dough to stand 10 minutes to allow the milk to evaporate then lay plastic wrap on top until the loaf has doubled in size.

  7. Place in the oven, reduce the temperature to 375° F and bake 25 minutes or until the loaf is baked.

    Allow to cool completely before slicing.

Have you ever been to N’Awlins and had a Muffuletta?  Have you made one?  What did you like best about it or do you think you’ll like best?
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