It’s a solo episode today and I’m talking about harmony of the cook and harmony with the cook and the tools of the craft-the ingredients.
This was inspired by a post I saw in a Facebook baking group. The OP complained about the failed state of her product and wondered if, at times, her fellow bakers also hated bread.
I responded to her with kindness and encouragement but realized there was a bigger idea afoot.
Pancakes on the griddle smell up the whole kitchen. Vanilla and the toasty bottom are intoxicating.
Add some bacon and sausage and eggs-I prefer over easy but the kids want scrambled-and some right proper maple syrup and that’s a great way to start Sunday. Or Saturday.
Before pancakes were called pancakes they went through an identity crisis with names such as flannel cakes or hoe cakes or pannekocken, a Dutch term for buckwheat pancakes.
Pancakes also have a history with Shrove Tuesday-also known as Fat Tuesday-and the last gustatory indulgence before a 40 day fast. So popular was the pancake to usher in Lent that Pancake Day is still a thing in the UK.
All those varieties were, of course, made by hand. It took innovation to make the mix and the pancake became it’s own thing, spawning even IHOP and more.
Homemade is better for a variety of reasons including boasting. Also, there is the economics of pancake making. I already have all the ingredients, so I prefer to mix my own.
Pancakes recipes are as plentiful as shells at the beach, but like the shells, not all are the best.
I like fluffy pancakes which are tender. Two traits created by two different tasks. Fluffy from a different mixing technique, and tender from proper mixing.
Maple syrup, is, as far as I’m concerned, the only choice for pancakes. And the real deal, thank you. None of that fake stuff made in a wooden cabin or by an auntie. From trees, Vermont or Michigan ideally, boiled down to a lovely deep amber color.
Syrup grading was once very confusing. To clarify the problem, the government stepped in. You can image the clarity achieved. Still, there are industrious folks who have made the issue easy to understand. The fine people at Bascom Family Farms have made this. I prefer the end of season Grade B for the robust flavor.
Simple to make and delicious to eat. I make them at least once a month, trading between these and the banana pancakes or bannocks.
Melt the butter on low heat. Melted is good. Hot is not.
Scale the flour, baking powder and soda and salt into 1 bowl.
Scale the sugar into another bowl
In the bowl of the stand mixer, whisk the eggs and sugar until well frothy.
Add the buttermilk and butter and vanilla and mix to combine.
Use a rubber spatula to fold the dry into the wet. Fold with deliberate deep strokes and make the mix combined.
The trick to pancakes is do not, as in DO NOT over-mix. 10 deep on-purpose folds is probably enough.
Sorry for the yelling, but this is a big step. Too much and tender is gone.
Allow the batter to rest 10 minutes before griddling them.
*As an additional loveliness, whip 4 egg whites per full batch to just-stiff peaks and after the batter is mixed, fold in the egg whites. The pancakes get extra yummy and tender. They may not hold their height, but they do keep the yum.
A full recipe makes quite a few pancakes. We are 4 and half a batch is enough for everyone to have a second helping.
For a Gluten-Free version of half a batch, I adjust this recipe with these changes.
For this pancake recipe, I like the Trader Joe's gluten-free flour mix of Namaste's mix. In both cases, I use 120 grams of flour.
I adjusted the buttermilk to 330 grams.
Everything else remains the same, with this other addition: let the batter rest 10 minutes-no kidding, set a timer-for full hydration. It really does make a quality difference and it's worth the wait.
The names of the various pancakes and the information about the innovation of the mix came from the book The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, linked below. The author has collected an impressive amount of food fun-and some recipes-of and about American foods. Especially fun is the diner lingo.
Click here to visit the recipe file. Click here for gluten-free waffles.
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